There’s something really satisfying about breathing new life into old cameras. I recently pulled out my Agfa Shur-Shot Special, a beautiful vintage box camera originally made for 116 film, and decided to see what would happen if I ran 35mm film through it instead.
This post breaks down my process, what tools I used, how I loaded the film, and tips for avoiding overlap or wasted frames. If you’re curious about adapting modern film for vintage gear, this might be your sign to give it a try.
Why Shoot 35mm in a 116 Camera?
The Agfa Shur-Shot Special was designed for 116 film, which is long discontinued. While 120 film is a common workaround, 35mm is even more accessible and gives you a unique look. When used in a medium-format camera, the sprocket holes of 35mm film become part of the final image, creating a raw, full-frame aesthetic you can’t get from standard 35mm cameras.
I chose Fujifilm Fujicolor Superia 400 for this experiment—a color negative film known for its versatility and vibrant tones. It was a perfect fit for this hybrid setup.
The Tools You’ll Need
To make this work, you’ll need a few adapters that allow 35mm film to sit properly inside a camera designed for larger formats.
🧰 Here’s what I used:
• 35mm to 120 Film Spool Adapter
This adapter holds the 35mm roll in place on a 120 spool so it fits in the camera’s film chamber.
• 116 to 120 Film Spool Adapter Kit
These adapters convert the 116-sized spool chambers to fit standard 120 spools—essential for most 116 cameras.
• Fujifilm Superia X-TRA 400 35mm Film
A reliable, colorful 400-speed film that works well in a variety of lighting conditions.
How to Load 35mm Film Into the Agfa Shur-Shot
Step 1: Insert the Film
Drop the 35mm film (fitted with the 35mm-to-120 adapter) into the film chamber on one side. On the other, place an empty 120 spool (with 116-to-120 adapter) to take up the film.
Step 2: Tape It
Use a small piece of clear tape to attach the film leader to the take-up spool. Make sure it’s secure but smooth so it winds evenly.
Step 3: Advance the Film
Manually wind the camera to get past the film leader before starting your first shot—about 3–4 full turns should do it.
Advancing the Film: Preventing Overlaps
Since this camera wasn’t designed for 35mm film, you’ll need to manually control frame spacing. Here’s a rough guide based on my tests:
• Using 35mm Film: Turn the advance knob 0.85 full turns (or 1.7 half turns) per shot
• This gave me about 12 usable frames per roll
💡 Pro Tip: Use a scrap roll to test. After a few advances, open the back in a darkroom or changing bag to check spacing. Adjust accordingly.
Things I Learned (So You Don’t Have To)
• Light Leaks Happen
Tape up any seams or weak spots in the camera with black tape, especially around the film window if it’s uncovered.
• Frame Spacing is Trial and Error
Don’t be discouraged if your first few frames overlap or space too far apart. It’s part of the process.
• Sprockets = Vibe
The exposed sprockets give your photos a unique, archival quality that feels raw and cinematic. Embrace it.
Tips for Development & Scanning
When you send your roll to a lab, let them know it was shot in a medium format camera so they don’t crop out the sprockets during scanning. Not all labs are equipped to scan full-width 35mm with sprockets showing, so double-check before sending.
Alternatively, if you’re scanning at home, a flatbed scanner or DSLR scanning rig gives you more control over the final image crop.
Final Thoughts
Using 35mm in the Agfa Shur-Shot Special was a creative detour that reminded me why I love analog photography. It’s not perfect, it’s not predictable—and that’s kind of the point.
If you’re sitting on an old camera and want to experiment without tracking down expensive or rare film, give 35mm adaptation a shot. It’s a little clunky at first, but the results are worth it.
Stay Tuned
I’ll be posting the results from this shoot soon—full of color shifts, film borders, and vintage quirks. If you’ve done something similar, I’d love to see it. Drop me a comment or tag me on Instagram!